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    媒體報道
    東陽記憶之十九      上盧餛飩:游子俠客市井魂
    來源:東陽發布     發布時間:2017/9/26  瀏覽量: 次    字體:

        東陽素有“婺之望縣”“歌山畫水”之稱,人文薈萃,英才輩出。“2017世界東陽人發展大會”將于中秋期間拉開帷幕,為迎接這一盛會的到來,世界東陽人發展大會組委會特別推出“東陽記憶”征集活動,讓世界東陽人共話鄉情、共敘鄉愁。

        “君自故鄉來,應知故鄉事”。征集開始以來,我們陸續收到來自世界各地東陽人的大量投稿,內容涵蓋東陽自然風光、人文歷史、鄉土人情、民俗非遺、傳統美食等,其中不乏感人至深的佳作。一處風景、一份美食、一種習俗、一首民謠、一件物品、一個地標…都匯集成“鄉情”二字。

    十九

    上盧餛飩:游子俠客市井魂
    徐賢飛

    我覺得,理想的吃東陽上盧餛飩的時機,是在一個月黑風高的夜晚。
    東陽上盧村。月亮隱去,風吹著鐵皮大棚,啪啪的響。雪花,零星的雪花,漫天風舞。我戴著斗笠,桌邊放著把劍,品著那碗上盧餛飩,便柔情萬丈,想起了那位約定相忘于江湖的人兒。
    可此時,我卻沒有任何的范兒,羽絨衣裹著如粽子般的身體,手中只有支筆,惟一的現實的,就是那碗上盧餛飩。


    盛上一個,放到嘴里,舌頭碰到輕薄的皮,便有了爽爽的香。再輕輕地咬一口,新鮮的豬肉和它的汁水,滑進舌尖,那種鮮美!只有那句“此曲只因天上有,人間難得幾回聞”能夠匹配。
    諸般不切實際的聯想,只因我覺得,上盧餛飩是個俠客的餛飩。它隱匿于市井中,在東陽市區江北菜市場里,整日與肉攤為伍,與麥角、烤豆腐相隨。
    它占據了半個菜市場,約有八家攤位,一張張八仙桌隨意地擺著。世代相傳的餛飩擔,被光陰風霜凝練成了光滑的黑色。餛飩擔邊上,架著個大鐵鍋,下面幾根柴火燒得正旺。我們問,都改用方便的煤氣了,為什么還用柴火?老字號“顯宏餛飩”攤主盧顯宏說,“味道完全不一樣,連柴火的產地,都有講究。”

    盧顯宏介紹,柴火是用東陽嶺北和羅山一帶山區的巖上松。那里的松樹齡長,質地堅硬且含油量高,火焰旺火性急。這樣才能在很短的時間內,把熱量逼入皮薄餡嫩的餛飩內。
    上盧餛飩大多是祖傳的手藝,攤主們已不知祖上傳了幾代。“我太婆傳給我爺爺,爺爺傳給我爸,我爸傳給了我。”“秀明餛飩”攤主盧錦偉說。而“國清餛飩”老板娘金芬芳已把絕活傳給了女兒,女兒盧賽賽在讀大二,是上盧餛飩攤里走出的第二位大學生。
    跟我們說著話,盧錦偉包餛飩的手也沒有停過,一個個餛飩在他上飛舞著。旁邊的鍋里,小杉木鍋蓋只有鍋的三分之一大,正浮在大鍋里,宛如只美麗蝴蝶。這又是上盧餛飩燒法的又一不同。

    正月里,上盧餛飩生意更是好。“回來的人都要吃一碗。”盧顯宏一邊說,一邊指著餛飩攤旁停著的很多輛外地牌照的汽車。


    精選的本土豬肉,手工搟制的餛飩皮,特殊的烹制工藝,還有那鐵皮大棚下,八仙桌旁濟濟一堂的熱鬧,洗盡了外出創業東陽人一年的辛勞。吃客們說,回家第一要緊事,就是吃碗上盧餛飩,從舌頭、食道、胃里喚起家鄉的味道,然后舍下說了一年的普通話,講上幾句家鄉話。

     


    作者簡介
    徐賢飛,浙江日報記者。

    2017世界東陽人大會
    相約中秋,等你回家!

     

     

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